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  • Open access
  • 22 Reads
Dune-ing it Right: A 1D-model for the evolution of the Dutch Barrier Islands through the influence of waves, vegetation, and wind.

Barrier islands serve as a moving coastal border for bays, estuaries, and mainland coastal areas. They protect these more vulnerable habitats from coastal winds, waves, and storm surges. These islands exhibit diverse dune morphologies, ranging from high to low dunes, with intermediate zones named transitional dunes, as seen in the eastern part of the Dutch Barrier Islands.

This study examines the intricate interplay between aeolian transport, vegetation, wave dynamics, and storm events in shaping these dune forms, investigating the morphological parameters that govern dune formation and susceptibility to storms, waves, and vegetation dynamics. A one-dimensional (cross-shore) numerical model was developed to simulate the sandy barrier island evolution spanning years to decades, as a function of the interplay between storminess, vegetation characteristics, and barrier morphology. The model was validated using historical data from the Wadden Sea. Unlike previous studies that typically examine these processes separately, this model combines these processes into a unified framework, facilitating a more holistic depiction of long-term barrier island evolution, revealing beach width as a key control on dune state.

The research highlights that wide beaches with abundant sediment supply promote the formation of high dunes, whereas narrow, sediment-limited beaches tend to form transitional or low dunes. These findings enhance the understanding of the interdependencies among coastal processes and offer predictive tools for coastal management under environmental conditions.

  • Open access
  • 5 Reads
COASTAL STRANDPLAIN MORPHOSTRATIGRAPHY REFLECTED IN REMOTE IMAGE-COLOR INTENSITY PATTERNS: NORTHERN BLACK AND AZOV SEA COASTS, UKRAINE
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Rapid, effective, and low-cost topographic rendition and quantitative analysis of coastal landforms aids in revealing patterns of long-term (century-to-millennial-scale) trends. The morphostratigraphic record is mediated mainly by temporal patterns of wind forcing, wave climate, and storminess in a regime of changing sea level. To complement traditional ground-based methods, remote sensing technologies (satellite imagery, small UAVs) offer high-definition data. These are especially critical in regions of military conflict, such as the functionally non-tidal northern Black and Azov Sea coasts of Ukraine. To demonstrate the use of threshold-based image color-intensity (ICI) analysis of land-cover as a means of characterizing ridge-swale topography, we use shore-normal (dip-section) profiles across complex recurved strandplains at the termini of drift-aligned spits (Dovgyy, Tendra, Dzharylhach, Biryuchyy, Obytichna) and across swash-aligned cuspate forelands (Bakalska, Bilosarayska, Kryva). Along very wide (>3 km) strandplains, hundreds of beach/dune ridges have 30-50% higher ICI (0-256 grayscale) values than intervening vegetated or flooded swales. Areas of exposed bioclastic sand, as well as salt-encrusted and snow-covered surfaces, will have anomalously high grayscale values (>200). Where ridge tops are darker (lower grayscale values), an inverted ICI scale is used for visual representation of topography. In the post-war period, removal of land and sea mines will hamper field investigations (coring, trenching), necessitating reliance on non-invasive geophysical (georadar) and remote sensing techniques for coastal geological, ecological, and conservation research.

  • Open access
  • 4 Reads
Classification of High-Frequency Shallow Seismic Profiles Using CPTu and Core Geotechnical Data in the Aegean Sea, Greece

Geophysical and geotechnical data have been collated over the years from various sites in the Aegean Sea for the purpose of demarcating safe routes for submarine cables between mainland Greece and non-interconnected islands. Geodatabases have been developed for the assessment of cable burial, which includes piezocone tests (CPTu), vibro-cores and high-frequency (3.5 kHz) shallow seismic profiles. A comprehensive geodatabase has been constructed to provide discrete qualitative classifications of acoustic response, based on calibrated CPTu and vibro-core data, from three sites (Evia-Skiathos, Lavrio-Evia and Lavrio-Agios Georgios). Classification is initially based on CPTu, according to basic parameters (qt, u2, fs and Rf), followed by additional CPTu information (SBT charts, Su, etc.) and vibro-core analysis. Four main acoustic groups have been identified across the three sites. The first group exhibits facies of low amplitude to transparent reflection with some level of faint-to-moderate layering at deeper sections. qt exhibits values between 0 and 5 MPa, along with positive pore pressures, consisting of cohesive sediments of high-to-medium plasticity to silty sands. The second and third group display high-amplitude surficial reflectors with restricted penetration and represent intermediary CPTu response, with qt of 5-10 MPa and 10-20 MPa, respectively. Pore pressure is either variable or close to pressure equilibrium, with sediments consisting mainly of silty sands to sands. The fourth group shows high qt values (≥20 MPa) that correspond to coarser lithology (sands/silty sands to gravel) and harder substrates, with some CPTu tests exhibiting refusal, with a varied to negative pore pressure. Seismic facies show high-amplitude chaotic reflection, with occasional patches of medium-amplitude reflection. Results from the seismic facies–geotechnical correlation offer insights into the geological and geotechnical factors affecting CPTu and by extension the acoustic response of shallow stratigraphy.

  • Open access
  • 4 Reads
3D Structure of the Mesozoic Tan-Lu Fault Zone and Its Impact on Basin Evolution: Insights from the Southern Bohai Bay Basin, NE China
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The Cenozoic Tan-Lu Fault Zone, as the largest strike-slip fault system in eastern China, features complex deformation patterns and mechanisms and a tectonic evolution process that has been investigated by previous studies. Here, we present high-resolution seismic profiles across the whole southern Bohai Bay basin, linked to the Tan-Lu Fault Zone that allow us to observe two types of Mesozoic fault systems: an E-W trending basement fault set, and a NNE trending basement fault set. Considering the tectonic events that have happened since the Mesozoic and the intersection relationship between the two fault systems, we propose that the E-W trending basement faults are thrust faults, which can be attributed to the Triassic collision between the South China Block and the North China craton. The NNE trending basement faults are interpreted as strike-slip faults formed during transpression, due to multiple phases of subduction of the Pacific plate during Jurassic to Late Cretaceous. Both fault systems have been reactivated as normal faults during Early Cretaceous rifting, leading to the formation of a conjugate rift basin. The widespread Early Cretaceous extension promoted volcanic activity, allowing significant volumes of deep-seated magmatic material to rise along these two sets of faults and to erupt onto the surface. The spatial distribution of the volcanic products was structurally controlled by fault boundaries, leading to the formation of a large-scale, quadrangular Mesozoic volcanic basin.

  • Open access
  • 3 Reads
Continentocean transition and sedimentary records in the SW South China Sea: Insights from seismic evidence of the margin
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The South China Sea (SCS) serves as an ideal natural laboratory for investigating the breakup of old plate boundaries and the formation of new plate boundaries. Recent IODP drilling has significantly advanced our understanding of lithospheric breakup and seafloor spreading in the eastern sub-basin of SCS. Yet, the lack of drilling evidence means that the continent to ocean transition process in the southwestern sub-basin of SCS, particularly its final rifting stage, remains unclear. This study utilizes a newly processed high-resolution seismic reflection profile from the magnetic anomaly termination zone in the SW-SCS to investigate its crustal architecture, tectonicstratigraphic framework, and magmatic history. The results reveal the continental crustal and lithospheric breakup points defined by three first-order interfaces: the seafloor, top of basement, and Moho. This allows us to divide the margin into three major tectonic domains: thinning continental crust, continentocean transition (COT), and oceanic crust. These domains correspond respectively to syn-extensional, syn-breakup, and post-rift stratigraphic sequences, reflecting distinct evolutionary stages: continental crust breakup, continentocean transition (lithospheric breakup), and post-rift phases. The COT domain crust consists of igneous rocks where tops are fault-controlled wedge-shaped lava flows. Our kinematic restoration of southwestern sub-basin complete extension and seafloor spreading history, based on integrated tectonicstratigraphic and magmatic evidence, suggests the following: (1) continental crustal breakup was primarily detachment fault-driven with minor magmatic contribution, whereas (2) lithospheric breakup was magma-dominated, with faults acting as pathways for magma migration. This work provides critical insights into the lithospheric final rifting of the SCS and their implications for Southeast Asian tectonic evolution.

  • Open access
  • 6 Reads
Designing critical seafloor infrastructure against sediment gravity flow hazards: constraining sedimentary processes to propose mitigation strategies
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Sediment gravity flows are the world’s largest sediment movements, consisting of mixtures of sand, mud, and water that episodically travel down subaqueous slopes. They are reported to damage or destroy critical seabed infrastructure along the world’s continental margins, such as internet cables, pipelines, or windfarm anchors. However, due to their large-scale and inaccessible environments, little is known about their triggering mechanisms, behaviour, and interactions with engineered objects. This makes the design and maintenance of offshore structures extremely challenging.

Using repeat bathymetric surveys spanning over a decade, we reveal patterns of erosion and deposition in a submarine channel where turbidity currents have impacted and continue to impact critical seafloor infrastructure. We compare the erosion patterns through time to external triggers like typhoons and earthquakes and conclude that episodic increased sediment supply during typhoons is an important priming condition but far from a universal predictor of catastrophic events. By analysing yearly to weekly seafloor change, we are able to constrain the extent of erosion, predict future patterns, and propose effective mitigation strategies. We demonstrate that erosion and deposition along the submarine channel is driven by knickpoint migration, with areas of localised catastrophic erosion while in other parts of the channel net deposition occurs. This highlights the need for large-area surveying and an integral sedimentary system approach in order to design effectively, tailoring to these dynamic and catastrophic environments.

  • Open access
  • 5 Reads
Comprehensive analysis of the evolutionary trends of the Sukha Spit (Kinburn Peninsula, Black Sea, Ukraine)

About 13% of the world’s shorelines are barrier coasts. Most formed in the late Holocene; therefore, research now focuses on present-day geological and geomorphological controls. The Sukha Spit on the southwestern margin of the Kinburn Peninsula is Ukraine’s youngest accumulative coastal landform (~45 years), enabling assessment of its current morphodynamic setting and a reliable reconstruction of its evolution. This study combines field observations (2019–2021), a retrospective analysis of cartographic materials (1775–1986), and the interpretation of satellite data (1975–2025). ArcGIS Pro and RStudio were used to assess the spatiotemporal dynamics of the spit. Historical sources indicate that the subaerial portion of the barrier began to form in the first half of the twentieth century, proceeding episodically and punctuated by erosional events. The modern phase is linked to a reorganization of the subaqueous sandbar in the late 1970s and the 1981 storm. Satellite records show net progradation: spit length increased from ~1.07 km (1985) to ~4.10 km (2025). Growth is episodic, with periods of elongation alternating with stabilization and erosion, consistent with field observations from 2019 to 2021. The evolution of the Sukha Spit reflects directed yet episodic growth of accretionary forms governed by hydrodynamic forcing and the availability of nearshore marine sediments. This site refines understanding of barrier formation mechanisms in the Black Sea and provides a model for analogous coasts.

  • Open access
  • 2 Reads
Evolutionary Trends of the Ustrychne Lake Baymouth Barrier (Black Sea, Ukraine): A Retrospective Analysis Using Historical Maps and Satellite Imagery (1775–2025)

Along the northwestern Black Sea coast, diverse types of coastal barriers are widely distributed, formed predominantly by wind-driven wave dynamics and meteorologically induced sea-level fluctuations. The baymouth barrier of Lake Ustrychne lies within the continental part of the Tendra–Dzharylgach system, separating the coastal lake from Karkinit Bay. The absence of coastal protection structures at the barrier enables its morphodynamic evolution to be assessed under relatively undisturbed natural conditions. A retrospective analysis of historical maps (1775–1970s) and satellite imagery from Landsat and Sentinel-2 missions (1980s–2025) was used to identify the evolutionary trends of the Ustrychne Lake baymouth barrier. Shoreline extraction was performed in QGIS using satellite imagery, while shoreline position change analysis was conducted with the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS). Data from the Global Surface Water Explorer was utilized to assess fluctuations in the surface area of Ustrychne Lake. Cartographic records from 1784 to 1855 demonstrate that the body of water initially developed as an open liman. Following the formation of the barrier in 1859, however, it transitioned into a coastal lake system. Periodic breaching was observed within the established barrier. Historical sources document breaches in 1956 and 1972, while satellite data indicate their occurrence in the eastern part of the baymouth barrier during the 1980s. Since 2001, the barrier has been undergoing a process of widening, driven by the gradual decrease in surface area of the lake. The frontal shoreline of the barrier can be characterized as dynamically stable. The barrier underwent substantial morphological changes during Storm Bettina in November 2023. Frontal shoreline erosion and inlet formation have reduced the body of the barrier. The baymouth barrier of Ustrychne Lake has undergone significant morphological and dynamic changes over the past 250 years. Its sensitivity to hydrometeorological forcing is highlighted by periodic breaching events and shoreline fluctuations.

  • Open access
  • 1 Read
COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF SATELLITE EFFICIENCY IN DETECTING MARINE POLLUTION WITHIN THE CLEANSEANET SYSTEM

CleanSeaNet is a satellite-based monitoring service operated by the European Maritime Safety Agency (EMSA), aimed at detecting oil spills and other forms of marine pollution across European Union waters. As one of the key operational tools supporting maritime surveillance and environmental protection, the service provides national authorities with near-real-time information that can be used for both immediate response and long-term policy development. This study evaluates and compares the performance of individual satellites contributing to the CleanSeaNet system, focusing on their effectiveness in identifying surface-level pollution events. Using a comprehensive dataset collected over the past five years, detected spills were categorised according to the confirmation method employed—such as aerial surveillance, vessel reports, or follow-up inspections—and subsequently classified as either real pollution events or false positives. The primary objective of this analysis is to assess the detection accuracy of each satellite across a range of spill types, while also identifying potential patterns in reliability. The findings indicate that satellite performance is not uniform. Instead, significant variations emerge that support the hypothesis that detection efficiency depends on multiple interrelated factors, including sensor technology, orbital characteristics, and prevailing environmental conditions such as sea state or wind. These insights provide valuable guidance for optimising monitoring strategies and improving the overall robustness of CleanSeaNet.

  • Open access
  • 3 Reads
Environmental Influences on Heavy Metal Accumulation in Macroalgae: A Bibliometric Review of Recent Trends and Research Gaps

Heavy metal accumulation in seaweed poses significant ecological and human health risks, with environmental factors like salinity, temperature, and pH profoundly influencing these processes. Despite the critical need for effective monitoring and remediation strategies, a comprehensive, data-driven understanding of global research trends and gaps in this field remains elusive. Addressing this, our study presents the first bibliometric analysis of the literature to systematically map the evolution of research on environmental factors and heavy metal accumulation in seaweed. The initial search in the Web of Science Core Collection yielded 723 references. After refining the dataset to include English-language research articles published between 2005 and 2024, a final set of 619 papers was selected for analysis. This novel, data-driven approach provides a macroscopic view of the field's intellectual structure and dynamic shifts.

Our analysis reveals a robust field anchored by 'heavy metals,' 'algae,' and 'cadmium' as foundational themes. Key co-occurrence clusters delineate three dominant research thrusts: environmental monitoring and risk assessment, mechanistic understanding of physiological responses and bio-solutions, and the development of remediation technologies. Thematic mapping indicates that core concepts like 'macroalgae,' 'pollution,' and 'accumulation' are actively gaining centrality, evolving towards 'Motor' themes that drive the field. Concurrently, 'biosorption' and 'adsorption' are identified as mature, specialized areas, suggesting a focus on refinement. Trend analysis highlights sustained interest in established concepts alongside the emergence of new frontiers such as 'biochar' for sustainable solutions and 'oxidative stress' for deeper biochemical insights. Geographic analysis reveals that China dominates the research landscape (227 papers), followed by India (125) and Spain (102). This integrated perspective identifies critical research gaps, including the pressing need for multi-stressor interaction studies, the scaling of real-world applications, and research on understudied species and ecosystems. These findings offer crucial, actionable directions for future research to develop more effective and sustainable mitigation strategies against marine heavy metal contamination, ultimately contributing to healthier marine environments and safer seafood.

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