Organic compounds of natural origin as hypopigmentation dermocosmetic active supstances – in vitro and in vivo study

Alpha-hydroxy acids-AHAs and polyphenols-PPs are natural organic compounds frequently used as good and safe hypopigmentation supstances in dermocosmetics for lightening of dark spots appearing on the skin due to oxidative stress. Therefore, the aim was in vitro analysis of content of these compounds and in vivo investigation of hypopigmentation potential of dermocosmetic cream with extract of wild apple fruit-EWAF (Malus sylvestris fructus, (L.) Mill., Rosaceae). Cream was made with 6% of EWAF (obtained by ultrasonic extraction and ethanol as solvent), as a source of AHAs and PPs, and stabilized by alkyl-polyglucoside emulsifiers. Content of AHAs and PPs into cream was investigated using HPLC analysis, while in vivo hypopigmentation potential was investigated employing the biophysical methods on the skin of healthy volunteers after 7 days of cream application, after artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation using dihydroxyacetone (by measuring melanin index-MI and erythema index-EI). Content of identified AHAs was 252mg/100g of cream (the most common were malic (19.75mg/100g) and lactic acid (21.07mg/100g)), and PPs 1.07mg/100g (phloridzin (0.47mg/100g) and chlorogenic acid (0.41mg/100g)). In vivo investigation revealed good hypopigmentation potential of cream. Application of cream with AHAs and PPs, as active exfoliation agents, induced significant decrease of MI (-20,25±41,61) and decrease of EI (-45,25±23,54). Formulated dermocosmetic cream demonstrated good lightening and anti-irritating effects on skin, probably due to the synergistic effects between identified AHAs and PPs. Cream with organic compounds of natural origin, as active hypopigmentation supstances, might be suitable for possible usage as dermocosmetic product for lightening of skin hyperpigmentation.