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Exploring ethosomal technology to preserve bioactive plants by-product extracts for cosmetic purposes
* 1, 2, 3 , 3 , 1, 2 , 1, 2
1  Centro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal
2  Laboratório Associado para a Sustentabilidade e Tecnologia em Regiões de Montanha (SusTEC), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal
3  Departamento de Ciencias Farmacéuticas, Facultad de Farmacia, CIETUS-IBSAL, Universidad de Salamanca, Campus Miguel de Unamuno, 37007 Salamanca, Spain
Academic Editor: Luis Cerdán

Abstract:

Using natural plant extracts in cosmetics has grown since the early twenty-first century. Waste biomass from berry crops is being studied for its potential to create high-value products, with encapsulation playing a key role in preserving plant extracts and enhancing their bioavailability. Among them, ethosomes, specialized ultra-deformable liposomes produced with a higher ethanol content, have demonstrated effectiveness in delivering medicinal compounds through the skin without causing adverse effects. They have been used in various cosmetic products for skin treatments and hair care, such as those with coenzyme Q10 or vitamins A and E, which help protect the skin from oxidative stress, improve skin hydration, and reduce signs of aging. They are also employed in skin-whitening agents (e.g., for kojic acid, hydroquinone encapsulation) and anti-hyperpigmentation treatments. This study introduces a novel approach to enhancing the commercial potential of berry crop by-products. Commercial raspberry leaf extracts were encapsulated in an ethosomal system through the cold method and thoroughly characterized using laser dispersion, zeta potential, encapsulation efficiency, colorimetry, and optical microscopy, revealing a mean particle size (D4:3) of 2.48 to 10.80 µm and entrapment efficiency (EE%) of 51.79% to 72.25%. The zeta potential ranged from -40.06 mV to -30.93 mV. Results suggest that ethosomes are an effective method for encapsulating hydroethanolic bioactive plant by-product extracts. These findings are significant as they make these encapsulated extracts suitable for various industrial applications. Particularly in the cosmetics industry, where the demand for natural and effective ingredients is rapidly increasing, present research could have a significant impact.

Keywords: encapsulation; ethosomes; bioactive plant extracts; berry crop by-products; cosmetics.
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