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Exploring the Bioactive Benefits of Hops for Skincare and Health Applications
* 1, 2, 3 , 2, 4 , 4, 5 , 6 , 2, 7
1  Universidade de Vigo, Departamento de Ciencias, Facultade de Bioloxia, 36310 Vigo, Spain
2  Centro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal
3  Laboratório Associado para a Sustentabilidade e Tecnologia em Regiões de Montanha (SusTEC), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal
4  AquaValor – Centro de Valorização e Transferência de Tecnologia da Água – Associação, Rua Dr. Júlio Martins n.º 1, 5400-342 Chaves, Portugal
5  Centre for the Research and Technology of Agro-Environment and Biological Sciences (CITAB)/Institute for Innovation, Capacity Building and Sustainability of Agri-Food Production (Inov4Agro), University of Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro, 5001-801 Vila Real, P
6  Department of Vegetal Biology and Soil Sciences, Faculty of Sciences, University of Vigo, 32004 Ourense, Spain
7  5 Laboratório Associado para a Sustentabilidade e Tecnologia em Regiões de Montanha (SusTEC), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal
Academic Editor: Paola Saccomandi

Abstract:

Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) have been extensively investigated for their multifunctional properties across various industries, including food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals. This study collected samples from several hop cultivars (Nugget, Cascade, Chinook) and wild-type hops from the Bragança region, Portugal. The plant materials studied comprised cones, stems, and leaves, while in the case of the Nugget byproduct, additional plant parts such as seeds, bracts, and vegetative tissue were also analyzed.

The main goal was to use UV-VIS and HPLC spectrophotometric techniques to assess the chemical composition and pharmacological features of hydromethanolic hop extracts. The presence of several phytochemicals, including flavonoids, phenolic acids, alkaloids, and terpenes was associated with the antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory actions of the key bioactive characteristics evaluated. Using enzymatic inhibition tests that target the enzymes tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, the extracts' sun protection factor (SPF) and dermatological bioactivity were further assessed. Human fibroblast (HFF-1) and keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell lines were used to test in vitro cytotoxicity. The hydromethanolic extracts were found to contain bioactive phenolic compounds, including isoquercetin, kaempferol, rutin, and apigenin. Outstandingly, the extracts exhibited potent antibacterial activity against Cutibacterium acnes and demonstrated significant elastase-inhibitory effects.

These bioactivities highlight the potential of hops as a valuable source of bioactive compounds for future applications in pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and nutraceutical development.

Keywords: Humulus lupulus; Bioactive compounds; UV protection; Antibacterial activity; Enzyme inhibition;
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