Please login first
Physical-chemical properties of the phenolic compounds of Humulus lupulus and aromatic plant terpenes; potential for use in a cosmetic formulation
1 , 2 , 3 , * 4
1  IPB -Instituto Politecnico de Bragança
2  Mountain Research Center, Bragança Polytechnic Institute, Campus Santa Apolónia, Aparteda 117, 5301-855 Bragança, Portugal. Bragança Polytechnic Institute- Agraria de Bragança Highter School.
3  Centro de Estudos do Ambiente e do Mar (CESAM), Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade de Lisboa, Centro de Biotecnologia Vegetal (CBV), C2, Piso 1, Campo Grande, 1749-016 Lisboa, Portugal
4  Mountain Research Center, Bragança Polytechnic Institute, Campus Santa Apolónia, Aparteda 117, 5301-855 Bragança, Portugal. Bragança Polytechnic Institute- Agraria de Bragança Highter School.

Abstract:

The Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) are known worldwide as an essential flavor in the beer industry. Its compounds have been showing health benefits in terms of phytochemical, pharmacological and biological profiles, due to their antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anticancer activities. This study intends to develop a gel formulation incorporating hydroalcoholic extracts of different varieties of hops such as Cascade, Polaris and Spontaneous, from the cones and the vegetative plant parts, in different percentages. The essential oil of Thymus zygis was used as a natural conservative and the analysis of the composition was made by GC and GC-MS. Later evaluation of the physical-chemical parameters, stability and capacity to inhibit microbial growth was made . The pH measurement results of the formulations tend to be adjusted to the natural pH skin. The relative density obtained values ​​of 1 and 0.857. It was found that there were no changes in the phase separation in the centrifugation, vibration, stability and accelerated test. However, changes were observed in the UV-Visible spectra, in texture, consistency and viscosity, and in the color test. In the light test there was phase separation in the samples, which may be related to the manufacturing technique of the formulations. However, this formulations anti aging with phenols from Hop can be development in order to obtain formulations with relevant properties for the consumers and the cosmetic industry.

Keywords: Humulus lupulus; Cosmetic formulation; varieties; spontaneous
Top